Archive for June, 2008
Posted by derrick on
June 30, 2008
First Internet access! I’m in the public library in Burgeo making the best of a weather day. Strong winds and rain continue to fall. I’m hoping to be off again tomorrow, but time will tell. I visited the local market and am eating everything in sight. Did you know that strawberry and rhubarb pie goes well with Moose and beer? ;^) My original “freeze-dried” meals are gone and I am picking up local fare as I go — including salt cod and moose. I’m eating much higher calorie foods than on my Iceland trip, so haven’t noticed any weight loss. On a tip from Kevin at Travel Country Outdoors (the shop where I work) I have been loading up all my meals with olive oil to add calories.
Body and kayak are doing fine. The first week is the toughest with blisters on my hands forming and sore muscles. Hands are now toughening up and body is growing stronger — welcoming the exercise. A number of people asked me if I would be “lonely” on the trip. The answer has been no. I’m comfortable by myself and have spent my time thinking, squawking at the birds or even singing on the water (good thing no one is around to hear that!) The drawbacks of not having a partner include the added difficulties of hauling the kayak up and over rocks at the end of the day. Also minor issues, like a jammed skeg are no problem with a partner, but become a major nuisance on your own. At one point I contemplated making a “spacewalk” (leaving the cockpit to crawl back or swim to the stern to fix) but ruled it out as too risky and inconvenient. Fortunately the skeg cleared on its own after the kayak pounded through enough waves.
Getting the dayhatch repaired was a big help. Previously it would have about 1/2 gallon of water by the end of the day, adding unnecessary weight and making it a chore to dry gear.
Many thanks to Karel and Derrick for the weather forecasts, Google maps and for blogging my SAT messages. Also thanks to everyone who has posted comments! Your comments are much appreciated and I will reply personally to everyone when the trip is done – Greg
From Greg: N47 36.6 W57 37.1 Burgeo. 47k. Chased off water due to storm. Tent is getting pelted by cold rain & gusty winds. Several close encounters with humpbacks, nice views of their flukes as they sounded. Followed closely for several mins by light-gray dorsal fin. Fin stayed on the surface — didn’t act or swim like a typical dolphin. Shark? Dolphin? Turned quickly to confront and it dove rapidly. I had my paddle prepared to give a strong jab if necessary. Didn’t see again.
Posted by derrick on
June 29, 2008
From Greg: N47 35.31 W57 06.25 Grey River. 65k. Overcast but bright with very little fog. Scale of fiords is fantastic. Saw a Humpback whale & 2 eagles. Re-provisioned food in Grey River. Kayak pulled up next to fishing boats. . . looks like part of the fleet.
Posted by derrick on
June 28, 2008
From Greg: N47 36.73 W56 23.73 Richard’s Harbour. 63k. Rain & fog. Double crossing of Fortune & Hermitage Bays. Many whales, blow spouts everywhere. Whale surfaced within 30 feet of kayak! Boat repairs worked day hatch bone dry.
– – –
Posted by derrick on
June 27, 2008
This from MR. STAMER; Another weather day on Brunette island. Winds dropping. Expect to cross to S coast tomorrow. Beautiful sunny day. Took opportunity to make boat repairs. Day hatch compartment was leaking thru bolts in bulkhead. Applied caulk. Also fixed chine gel coat damage from rock impact with epoxy putty.
– – – – –
In sea kayaking it is generally accepted that leaks. . . are bad.
Posted by derrick on
June 26, 2008
From Greg: Hunkered down in strong, gusty winds. Sea is a mess of whitecaps. Hìlleberg tent doing a great job. Hiked island and replenished water from large interior lake. No sign of lone bison reported in past years. Landscape is green rolling hills, untamed by fences & replenished and bordered by the sea. Stunning & soul renewing.
(Force 7? White Caps? and he’s on land communing with nature?? Bah! I say!. . . .)
Posted by derrick on
June 25, 2008
Brunette Island, 20 km2, is situated at the mouth of Fortune Bay on Newfoundland’s Southern coast, 18 km South of Connaigre Head. Residents of the Island were relocated to the mainland in the late 1950s, and since then Brunette became a provincial wildlife reserve. Over the years the government has started experimental colonies of Caribou, Arctic Hare, Moose and . . . Bison. Apparently they all lived happily ever after. . well, other than the bison.
Greg arrived on Brunette Island under heavy fog and light rain. He fully guyed out his tent in anticipation of storms and winds up to F7 plus tomorrow. Sounds like a weather day. He reports that a whale spoutedd close to his kayak today. . . and that he’s looking forward to sleeping in. . . all cozy warm in his tent. . . curled up with a Caribou, an Arctic Hare, a Moose, and a Bison. . .
Read More about Brunette Island.
*top image by John Hill, 1971.
Posted by derrick on
June 24, 2008
From Greg – heavy, dense fog. Only dark glimpses of land. Light winds. Saw a small whale! Paddled late into the night due to the lack of landing spots. Covered 57k.
Posted by derrick on
June 23, 2008
After a rest day Greg jumped right back into the fray. He battled intense F5 plus headwinds and for most of the day made only 1 to 2 kts. The constant cold winds caused both his contact lenses to dry out at the same time and roll behind his eyelids. He had to switch back to glasses (which can really suck on the water). Through the day the wind and fog would sweep rapidly over and then plummet down the mountain peaks which Greg said was amazing to see. The wind died around 5pm. By the end of the day he made a camp in a small cover near Sauker Hd by a small stream. For the day he managed 33 km.
– if you look really closely, you can see Greg skinny dipping in the frigid stream. . . . (N46 54.5 W55 17.9)
Posted by derrick on
June 22, 2008
Greg checked in with a bit more yesterday – “Resting in Fox Cove. Placentia crossing started with steep following seas. 93km. Was able to surf for the beginning of the trip near Cape St. Mary’s. GPS recorded highest surfing speed of 18.9kts. Winds died midway into crossing Paddled thru the night, and then sun-up (the sun sets around 9:30pm and rises around 4:00am). Bright flashes of bioluminescence on each paddle stroke.”
Posted by derrick on
June 21, 2008
Placentia Bay is about 50 miles wide stretches inland about 80 miles. We had wondered how Greg would approach it. Now we know. We received a late message; “N47 05.5 W055 06.3 Crossed Placentia Bay 18 hours in kayak. Will take a rest day.” A rest day? I’m not surprised! 18 hours across open water is an incredible achievement for any paddler. We’re all pretty impressed around here, and of course happy Greg made it across without incedent. Neil Burgess shares this; “No one has ever crossed Placentia Bay from Cape St. Mary’s to the Burin Peninsula before in a kayak!”
