Q: Good morning!
I have made several wooden greenland paddles and they get better all the time. I am thinking I would like to purchase a carbon fiber greenland paddle.
Which, in your opinion, is the most reliable, least fragile, etc.?
FYI, I live and paddle in Florida. Rivers, offshore, day and extended trips.
Thank you! Adrian
A: Hi Adrian, quality carbon Greenland paddles are light and strong, but expensive. Most will set you back at least $500 and I wouldn’t recommend the no-name off-brands. While strong, carbon may not be the best choice for some of the advanced Greenland rolls where the paddle is levered off the chine or deck. Of the two Greenland paddles that I have broken in my career, one broke while doing the under-the-hull-sculling roll where I pressed the blade too hard against the chine, and it snapped. That said, if done with good technique and mindful of pressure, carbon should not be a problem for rolling (except for the walrus pull). Be aware that carbon will be more prone to scratch your deck than a wood blade during rolls and when removing a stowed paddle from the deck.
What I love about carbon GPs is their thin edges — edges that really bite but would be too fragile to make using wood. This is a trade-off, too sharp and the blades can be uncomfortable to hold, but If you like fast touring, I very much recommend a carbon GP for the performance gains.
An unusual feature of a carbon GP is that because the blades are hollow or foam filled, if you put one blade deep in the water and press the opposite blade to your ear, you have a DIY hydrophone and can hear some interesting sounds under the water!
Paddles are very personal items, but my favorite carbon Greenland paddles are the Superior kayaks carbon and the Gearlab Ipik.

I circumnavigated Iceland and Newfoundland with the Superior paddle back in 2006 / 2007 and my two paddles are still going strong and have never needed a repair. A great feature of this paddle is the Lendal Paddlok joint. Using a 4mm allen key (supplied) you can securely lock the paddle halves for a solid (no wiggle) connection. Mark Rogers is no longer making these paddles, but production was taken over by Nash Boat Works. Nash Boat Works currently lists these as out-of-stock, so I’m unsure of availability.
I’m also a big fan of the Gearlab Ipik
While I don’t like most Gearlab paddle designs because of their round shafts (a deal-breaker for me), the Ipik was designed with input from Turner Wilson and features an oval shaft and a very traditional shape, with comfortable shoulders and a great, solid feel in the water. The blade roots are a shallow diamond in cross section. While I love the additional tactile feel this provides, a few people who have tried my paddle said they preferred a more rounded profile. Like other Gearlab paddles the tips are replaceable (but I have never broken the tip of a wood or carbon Greenland paddle).
Q: Hi Greg, I have a new GPSMap78 GPS and it is not showing the names of any islands. I have contacted Garmin Support and they are telling me that I need a TOPO map or additional maps. Please help!
A: I have seen some late Garmin GPS units using Bluecharts come configured by default, where oddly, you do not see the names of any islands. For example, you will see the the details and outline of islands on your screen but you will have no clue what they are named. I’ve had a few people ask me about this.
As you say, calls to Garmin Support often result in incorrect information that you need to load additional maps, topo maps, that Bluechart doesn’t support, etc.
Oddly my older Garmin GPSMap units don’t have this issue. Fortunately this is an easy configuration change to fix: (more…)
Q: Hi Greg,
I use both Greenland style kayak (hard chine,low deck, low volume) and Brit style kayak (round chine, generous freeboard). What I get frustrated about Greenland style boat is that it is really hard to keep it tracking straight in a [rear quartering] sea. I have no problem with my Brit boat even without using skeg (yet), but with my Greenland style boat, I have to really work on corrective strokes and it slows me down. Is it just the nature of this kind of kayak? Or is there any technique that I can use to make it easier? I don’t see any article about Greenland style technique regarding to that subject (boat handling in wind) except extended strokes. It is hard for me to think they (the Greenlanders) did not have that kind of technique to pass on when they had to use the kayak which is very very sensitive to what the water does to it. So far I am learning to adapt Brits technique to use with Greenland style gears just because I can’t find anything from “Greenland side”. Thanks! Setsuko
A: Hello Setsuko,
Many classic British sea kayaks have a strong West Greenland influence. While I like the control afforded by hard chines, the overall shape of the kayak is much more important than just hard-chined or round-bilged, when it comes to tracking, weathercocking and broaching.
Greenland kayaks, even from the same general area, can behave very differently, so it’s impossible to generalize. I have paddled kayaks in West Greenland, built in the same town, that weathercocked viciously and others that tracked strongly. I find that the kayaks that exhibit the most weathercocking often have very low volume and very “pinched” ends (when viewed from above), combined with strong rocker. While this often gives superb maneuverability (and a certain aesthetic appeal), it can make the kayak quick to weathercock/broach. (more…)