Archive for the ‘Ask Greg; Answered Questions’ Category
Posted by Greg on
January 25, 2022
Q: Hi Greg, I have a new GPSMap78 GPS and it is not showing the names of any islands. I have contacted Garmin Support and they are telling me that I need a TOPO map or additional maps. Please help!
A: I have seen some late Garmin GPS units using Bluecharts come configured by default, where oddly, you do not see the names of any islands. For example, you will see the the details and outline of islands on your screen but you will have no clue what they are named. I’ve had a few people ask me about this.
As you say, calls to Garmin Support often result in incorrect information that you need to load additional maps, topo maps, that Bluechart doesn’t support, etc.
Oddly my older Garmin GPSMap units don’t have this issue. Fortunately this is an easy configuration change to fix: Read the rest of this entry »
Posted by Greg on
April 22, 2012
Q: Hi Greg,
I use both Greenland style kayak (hard chine,low deck, low volume) and Brit style kayak (round chine, generous freeboard). What I get frustrated about Greenland style boat is that it is really hard to keep it tracking straight in a [rear quartering] sea. I have no problem with my Brit boat even without using skeg (yet), but with my Greenland style boat, I have to really work on corrective strokes and it slows me down. Is it just the nature of this kind of kayak? Or is there any technique that I can use to make it easier? I don’t see any article about Greenland style technique regarding to that subject (boat handling in wind) except extended strokes. It is hard for me to think they (the Greenlanders) did not have that kind of technique to pass on when they had to use the kayak which is very very sensitive to what the water does to it. So far I am learning to adapt Brits technique to use with Greenland style gears just because I can’t find anything from “Greenland side”. Thanks! Setsuko
A: Hello Setsuko,
Many classic British sea kayaks have a strong West Greenland influence. While I like the control afforded by hard chines, the overall shape of the kayak is much more important than just hard-chined or round-bilged, when it comes to tracking, weathercocking and broaching.
Greenland kayaks, even from the same general area, can behave very differently, so it’s impossible to generalize. I have paddled kayaks in West Greenland, built in the same town, that weathercocked viciously and others that tracked strongly. I find that the kayaks that exhibit the most weathercocking often have very low volume and very “pinched” ends (when viewed from above), combined with strong rocker. While this often gives superb maneuverability (and a certain aesthetic appeal), it can make the kayak quick to weathercock/broach. Read the rest of this entry »
Posted by Greg on
February 23, 2012
Q: Can I mount an ONNO foot bar in my NDK Greenlander pro?
Is there enough room for the knees to bring my feet into a centered position?– J P Meyenberg
A: JP, I have an ONNO carbon foot bar (foot plate) mounted in my NDK Greenlander Pro and love it. For those who aren’t familiar with it, the ONNO foot bar is a very lightweight, wide carbon plate that mounts to your existing Yakima pedals (stock installation is with screws). The hardware is provided to modify your current Yakima aluminum rails so that they are parallel so that the solid foot plate can be adjusted fore/aft without binding. Read the rest of this entry »
Posted by Greg on
February 19, 2012
Q: How hard is it to paddle around with a camera in the cold? I’d love to do a shoot somewhere with the ice and water. Some of your pictures are amazing. — Donna.
A: Donna, Thanks for the complement. All of the kayaking images that I have taken in the last few years have been with the new breed of “waterproof/shockproof” point and shoot digital cameras. These cameras don’t offer quite the image sharpness and features of more “professional” cameras, but their strength is that you can grab them in an instant and capture images that would go missed with a much bulkier camera or a camera that must be retrieved from a dry box. Most of the images for my Sea Kayaker magazine articles were taken with a waterproof digital, so very good results are possible.
I have used the Olympus Stylus series (e.g. Stylus 1030 SW) extensively, but lately I have been using a new Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS3. Both are great cameras. The Olympus has a sliding closure that covers the lens after you turn off the camera. I have a love-hate relationship with this feature. Usually it works great, and keeps the lens clean and dry, however if you do manage to get water behind it, it continues to smear water on the lens every-time you turn on the camera, even if you dry the lens.
The Panasonic doesn’t feel quite as rugged as the Olympus, but time will tell. My reason for choosing the Lumix this time around was image quality and high-definition video capability. The Lumix (like
some other models) also includes a built-in GPS, compass, altimeter and barometer that might be useful for some applications, I can live without this, but it might prove “nice to have”. Read the rest of this entry »
Posted by Greg on
February 12, 2012
Q: You have stated that the Greenland Paddle (GP) can act as a wing when the GP is used in a high wing type stroke. Have you done a test in your fast kayak, GP vs wing to determine advantages of one or the other with respect to efficiency and/or speed in non racing situations, eg., outings from 5 to 15 miles?
I have acquired both a wing (Onno) and a GP (Novorca) in the last year and have been learning both. At 4.2 kts, my traveling speed, the GP feels more efficient, but I can go at least 0.2 kts faster with the wing. Jerry
A: Jerry, Although I realize that you said non-racing situations, let me use that as an example, first, as it helps to clarify the issue.
To generalize, a racer is often trying to maximize speed over distance usually with an extremely light, unladen kayak. A sea kayaker is often trying the maximize the number of “miles per Snickers bars”, often with a heavy or gear-laden kayak, day after day. These are related, but are very different things and need to be viewed separately.
In a racing situation — very light kayak, 10 miles or less, using a very high stroke, I’m about 1.5 – 2 minutes per mile faster with my wing than with a GP. That’s not much for touring but is an eternity for racing. Unfortunately this is not a perfect test since my current “go-fast” kayaks have a fairly high foredeck that makes it difficult to fully bury the blades of my GP at the catch. I have won local races with a GP over wings, but if I want my best time I use a wing. Read the rest of this entry »
Posted by Greg on
February 3, 2012
Q: What would you suggest to someone who wants to unlearn unwinding before the catch and start to get good muscle memory for catch before unwinding.
Because the kayak is already moving I find myself unwinding – irresistibly! ;-( before catch. Apart from visualizing spearing a salmon, do you have other advice, tips, tricks, dry/ wet exercises etc to catch before unwinding?
A: When I do video analysis of students a common error is unwinding before the catch, or in other words, starting to apply power before the paddle is completely buried. This is a common power leak. Read the rest of this entry »
Posted by Greg on
January 27, 2012
Q: I would like to get the most out of my forward stroke with a Greenland Paddle, but I have been told different things about how to use the GP. Most emphasize torso rotation. Some say it is better not worry too much about rotation, but instead to reach and lean slightly forward, insert the paddle, then pull and sit-up. Some say to take the paddle out at the waist, as with an Euro-paddle. Some say to pull the paddle all the way through the stroke. Is there a style best suited to the GP and a Greenland style boat that gives the most power for the effort?
— Tom in North Carolina
A: Tom, thanks for the question.
Before going into specific techniques, following are some general points to ponder. There is a lot of condensed information here, you may have to read this more than once. Read the rest of this entry »
Posted by Greg on
January 24, 2012
Q: I want a Snapdragon skirt that will be good for Fla paddling and rolling. I want something to seal well. Which Snapdragon do you recommend? I paddle a Force 5 and a rm Chatham 17….Thanks. Dave
A: Dave, For full disclosure, I’m a Snapdragon team paddler but I bought Snapdragon before I was sponsored, they make a great product.
I have multiple skirts that I choose depending on my activity/conditions. The most bombproof skirts are full neoprene, they are dry but also warm (not an advantage in the Florida heat). Read the rest of this entry »
Posted by Greg on
January 20, 2012
Q: I have read different things about how to find the best length for a Greenland paddle and some of the methods result in very different sizes. Is there a traditional method to find the exact paddle size. Thanks! — Confused in Portland
A: Hello “Confused”. Greenland paddle sizing is usually done using anthropometric measurements. This type of measurement takes into account body sizing, and can be done directly, without a tape measure.
For the measurements below, an “armspan” refers to the full reach of your outstretched arms, from the extended fingertips of one hand, to the other.
- The most commonly-used method for touring is one armspan , plus a cubit (the distance from your elbow to your extended fingertips).
- For competition rolling, and kayaking in very windy areas, you may want a slightly shorter paddle — a common length is an armspan plus the distance from your wrist to your fingertips. A shorter paddle is easier to maneuver both underwater and in a strong wind.
- For a very short paddle used with a sliding stroke (often called a “storm paddle”), the length is short – one armspan, with the loom only two or three fists wide.
The key is to treat these guidelines as a ballpark estimate ONLY and experiment freely. Your ideal paddle may be several inches longer or shorter than these guidelines There is no “official/traditional” formula that will be perfect for all users. Don’t get too caught up in what is the “proper” or traditional sizing or what your friends use. By all means try many different sizes but what is important is that the paddle fits you, accommodates the dimensions of your kayak, and the type of paddling that you do.
Paddle length is affected by many things, including your torso height, arm length, kayak width and foredeck volume, height of your seat, and other factors, including your posture and technique.
If your paddle-length is not optimal you will have to compensate with technique, and your posture may be negatively affected. A good instructor can observe you and quickly determine if your paddle length looks good and if your posture and technique are sound.
Tip – if you make your own paddle, consider making your first one with the length slightly longer than what you think is “ideal”, and make the loom (paddle shaft) slightly shorter than what you think is “ideal”. This gives you room to experiment. After using the paddle, you can modify it as needed — by taking off some of the length or making the loom longer. It’s easy to remove wood but not so easy to put it back on!
For additional information please see the sizing information that I posted at Qajaq USA.
