I nudged the right rudder pedal and reminiscent of a vintage fighter plane peeling off to dive, my kayak heeled over as the bow dropped sharply into the wave trough just ahead of me. The acceleration was instantaneous. I had to stand on my foot-pegs and lean back to keep the bow from pearling. Soon I was surfing faster than my arms could spin; I even stopped paddling completely — holding the paddle blade skimming just above the water ready for a low brace. The GPS recorded 11 mph as my exuberant shouts of “Woo Hoo!!!” were drowned-out by the wind!
I was in the deepest part of Tampa Bay, about 5 miles from the starting beach with still a mile and a half to go to reach the shelter of the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) near Anna Maria island. During the crossing my speed was averaging 5, 6, and even 7 mph. The conditions were such that I could point my bow into the next wave trough and surf almost at will — although not always directly toward my destination, weaving a zig-zag path toward Anna Maria. Read the rest of this entry »
Photo courtesy of David Fajula
Note — The following post was written just after returning from Spain, but I was soon traveling again, and didn’t get a chance to edit and post it. Just this last weekend I enjoyed teaching locally at Paradise Coast Paddlers Festival. Following the festival I attended a great wing technique session taught by Oscar Chalupsky.
I’m just getting over the jet-lag, returning from visiting Europe, after enjoying teaching for the second time at the Pagaia symposium in Spain. This is by far the most international of events that I have ever participated in. Classes are overflowing with diversity with students speaking French, English, Spanish, German, Italian and Catalan. My hat is off to José Calderón, Anna Morena, and everyone who helped to organize this vibrant (and logistically challenging) event.
It’s been a few years since I have have taught in Europe so it was great to catch up with a number of old friends, both students and coaches. Read the rest of this entry »
Partner Linda Bartlett tries out her spanking new Impex Force 3 in Newfoundland’s Terra Nova National Park
I just returned from a whirlwind trip — teaching and speaking at the Atlantic Canadian Paddling Symposium in Nova Scotia before rushing off to Newfoundland to teach at the annual Kayak Labrador and Newfoundland (KNL) symposium. This isn’t as crazy as it sounds — next year the Atlantic Canadian Symposium will be held in Newfoundland (in lieu of the KNL event).
I should be accustomed to it by now, but it still feels silly to pack a suitcase full of winter clothes and gear, including a drysuit, and heavy wool insulation, when the mercury outside my Florida home is topping at a sweltering 90 degrees (32 C). I first experienced this disparity in 2000 when I traveled in summer to Greenland to compete in the 2000 championship. Flying from Baffin to Greenland I was shocked into reality as I gazed at the brilliant ice pans below that glistened in the sun. A chill went through me. “You’re not in Kansas any more”. Now, Newfoundland and Nova Scotia aren’t as cold as Greenland, but it did snow briefly in Newfoundland when I arrived!
It was great to visit both Nova Scotia and Newfoundland during the same trip. Although they are geographically close, they have very different personalities and cultures.
I circumnavigated Newfoundland in 2008 and have returned many times since then to visit my long-distance partner Linda Bartlett. We met at the conclusion of my circumnavigation. Visiting Nova Scotia this year was a first for me. Where Newfoundland is stark and rugged and has thin, rocky soil due to glacial scouring, Nova Scotia is more gentle with deep lush soil. It felt familiar — reminding me of the rich, rolling hills of the Midwest where I was raised. Both provinces are uniquely beautiful, although in different ways. The people here are wonderful. I’d rate the folks in Atlantic Canada as among the most generous and hospitable in the world.
Atlantic Canada symposium — Nova Scotia
The Atlantic Canada symposium was held on the Eastern Shore, about 45 minutes outside of Halifax. I taught Greenland-style kayaking to very enthusiastic students. Most of them had never held a Greenland paddle before. For the keynote address I discussed expedition kayaking against the backdrop of my Newfoundland circumnavigation. I originally wondered if talking about Newfoundland would be old news but I was surprised at the cultural distance between Nova Scotia and Newfoundland — for example some people in the audience were not aware of “resettlement”, a government sponsored relocation during the 1950’s – 1970’s where Newfoundlanders in the “outports” were moved from small villages into larger towns. Some intrepid people moved their homes over water or ice. I find the entire story amazing (as well as heartbreaking).
The schedule included time to allow instructors to take classes (thanks Chris!) and I jumped at the chance to learn canoe poling from Kevin Silliker and Tim Humes. Both men are as entertaining as they knowledgeable. It’s good to be humbled with the challenge of a new skill (although a canoe pole IS a skinny stick after all…) At the end of their session I was able to pole a canoe in wind and navigate very mild whitewater. I plan to use these new skills for fishing in nearby Mosquito Lagoon — standing in my kayak or canoe.
I enjoyed the diversity of the event. Canoes as well as kayaks were highlighted.
KNL Annual Symposum — Newfoundland
I hopped a plane for Newfoundland to visit Linda Bartlett and to teach private lessons, prior to coaching Greenland skills at Terra Nova National Park. This is a beautiful area where long fingers of forested, rocky land touch the North Atlantic. It felt like a homecoming, I had first visited and taught in the park in 2007, prior to paddling around Iceland.
KNL has a very unique teaching structure; classes are rotated between instructors. That gives each student the ability to sample everything on the menu (kind of like having tapas rather than a single heavy meal). What I find very unique about this event is the overlap between different disciplines. Unlike many events that have become highly specialized, here you will find cars with both whitewater kayaks and sea kayaks on the same roof and kayakers who love both activities. The KNL event emphasizes whitewater one year and sea kayaking the next. Brenna Kelly was on hand to coach whitewater skills this year.
It was very satisfying to see that Greenland-style paddling has been embraced in Newfoundland. I saw very few Greenland paddles in 2007, and they were fairly common this year.
Many thanks to Christopher Lockyer and Craig Moores of KNL for help with trip logistics, and everyone for their hospitality. I look forward to returning to Atlantic Canada soon!
— I need help with names in the photo essay below. Please send me a note and I’ll update the captions!
Nova Scotia – the event was held at “memory lane” a living museum
The Greenland-style paddling classes were well attended.
The joy of hitting an effortless “balance brace”!
Canoes, Kayaks, and Surf Skis (Oh My!)
Geneviève Langevin. Like many students she sampled a diversity of classes
That’s me, front-left, trying an even skinnier stick than usual… Photo courtesy Wayne Feindel
Nothing has the warmth of wood canoes…
Getting ready to try poling for the first time…
Kevin Silliker shows us how it’s done
Alan Goodridge (Newfoundland) and Amy Samson (Halifax, Nova Scotia). Fellow students in the canoe poling class.
Linda Bartlett demonstrates how to stay warm in Newfoundland– a “Rosie-scarf”! warm and fashionable :^)
KNL event; getting ready for the group paddle
The group trips at the KNL event were very well attended
Jen Kleck of Aqua Adventures must have pulled a few strings with the weather Gods. Even coming from sunny Florida I could not help but to be mightily impressed with the warm, Mediterranean-like weather in San Diego. The eighth Annual Southwest Kayak Symposium, held on Mission Bay, took place in glorious Spring conditions, with brilliant greenery, crystal blue skies and palm trees swaying in the warm sun.
As a Floridian, the conditions felt familiar, but distinctly different. The expected humidity was absent and the rolling panorama of hills, the Pacific swell, the cacophony of seals and sea lions on the rocks at La Jolla, made for a very memorable event.
The Southwest Kayak Symposium is held at “CampLand on the Bay”, a funky RV campground on Mission Bay. It’s an RV camp on steroids and is a microcosm of American/California culture. Lurking amid the lush vegetation are mammoth RVs with sides that pop-out to house-sized proportions, grocery stores, hot tubs, golf-carts and other conveniences. The venue (complete with chatty parrots overhead that attempt to drown out conversations), is a great place for a symposium, with large open areas of lawn and easy water access. Mission Bay offers beginners a safe place to whet (wet?) their appetite, while nearby La Jolla (the Jewel) offers more challenging conditions with Pacific surf and sea caves.
It was a pleasure to be reunited with friends and fellow coaches again, including Phil “rock star” Hadley, Russell Farrow, Nigel Foster, Kristin, Jen Kleck, Jake Stachovak (taking time off from his Portage to Portage expedition), Duane Strosaker, Michael Shugg and many more.
This was my second time coaching at the event. I joined up with Maine coach John Carmody on Thursday at La Jolla to introduce a number of students to the surf zone and to practice skills such as turning in wind and waves. This was the first time that I had witnessed John in action and was impressed by his quiet style and substance. I could only imagine the awe of one our students, living in land-locked Colorado, who had the thrill of paddling on the sea for the very first time; feeling the rising and falling swell, hearing the cries of sea birds echo off cliffs, and playing in the surf, all which combines to make this environment so alive.
I was on hand to coach students with their Greenland skills and together with instructors Duane Strosaker and Michael Shugg, thoroughly enjoyed myself. The students were enthusiastic and warm and many had at least one “AHA!” moment that excited and inspired them — which is what makes teaching so rewarding and truly worthwhile for me.
The party Saturday night included great food, a bonfire and music including Steve “Hullcracker” Wilson, Mark Sanders, Russell Farrow and Nigel Foster. The highpoint (err, lowpoint?…) was Phil Hadley performing a lively rendition of “Wild Thing”. The video, by Michael Shugg, appears below — watch it only if you dare! For the first time you can see what REALLY goes on at kayak symposiums! 😉
Many thanks to Jen Kleck for allowing me to participate. I look forward to attending next year!
Immaculate Green Lawn at La Jolla. Groups were performing Yoga, throwing frisbee and even playing croquet!
Nigel Foster waits for the right moment while launching at La Jolla
John Carmody coaching off the rocks at La Jolla.
Michael Shugg’s video “When Kayakers Go Bad….”
Jen Kleck and Jake Stachovak. Photo by Duane Strosaker.
Mark Sanders sings of the “Great White”… Photo by Duane Strosaker.
The “Lego-block” expandable kayak!
Relaxing with Nigel Foster (left) in the campground.
Pop-up tents for the coaches sprouted quickly in the campsite.
Russell and Kristin at the campsite.
The expressive Phil Hadley (on a good day)
Duane Strosaker performing Inuit Rope Gymnastics
Russell Farrow, Greg, Phil Hadley after the last classes were completed on Sunday. Photo by Michael Shugg
Jean Totz (past Sweetwater partner) and Jen Kleck ( Aqua Aventures San Diego) enjoy lunch on Sunday when the temps felt “more like Florida”
Spring weather in Central Florida is moody and sometimes downright bipolar. You can be blessed with warm, summer-like days, the beaches filled with bikini-clad sun-lovers, or cold stormy skies and near freezing temperatures. Participants at the 13th Sweetwater Symposium got to sample a bit of both moods.
After a year’s hiatus the 13th annual Sweetwater Symposium was held Feb. 26 – 28, with BCU/ACA/Greenland week starting Feb. 22. Although the week started with balmy temps in the mid seventies, by Saturday a cold front bringing arctic air had paddlers bundling up in full winter gear. Dry suits in Florida? Yes, it is true. Fortunately Suzanne Hutchinson, Kokatat rep, was on hand to discuss drysuits and help paddlers with new gaskets. I was happy to have brought my Kokatat drysuit and storm cag — the same gear I wore in Iceland and Newfoundland. It was the first time I have ever needed it in Florida at midday. The cold front blew through Saturday afternoon creating some very fun and challenging conditions and paddlers were soon greeted to blue skies with warm temps on Sunday. “This is more like it”, one participant grinned, as he strode by me in shorts and sandals, on his way to the water.
“Event HQ”, the focal point of the event, is Sweetwater’s new shop and is on the water. The shop has a “Key West” flavor to it and the entire event had a different feel this year. Some participants described it as very intimate, low-key and welcoming. Sweetwater president Russell Farrow said that “the event had a cool vibe — it was great to be able to walk directly from the shop to the water”.
One of the great things about sea kayaking and symposiums is that the coaches are so accessible. You rub elbows with the biggest names in the sport. For example, if you want to bend Nigel Foster’s ear over a beer during dinner then that’s fine. If you have a technical question that you didn’t want to share in front of class, then you can ask Jen Kleck, Steve Maynard, or another of the coaches privately. This lack of “celebrity” distance is very refreshing and is sorely lacking in most sports.
I enjoyed teaching Greenland skills and was heartened to see that interest in Greenland paddling technique — skills done on the move, was more in demand than rolling. The kayaking community is learning that Greenland paddles are much more than just tools for rolling and are excellent for day-trips, rough-water kayaking and expedition use. We explored forward stroke techniques that squeezed the full power and capability out of “the stick”, practiced directional control techniques including several bow-rudder techniques and contrasted Greenland technique to “mainstream” technique. It is always rewarding for me to teach, especially when I see students have an “aha” moment.
A huge great-white shark hung above the restaurant bar next door to the shop, and greeted guests with a menacing grin during the presentations and dinner. Kristin Nelsen discussed kayaking from an artist’s perspective and how the changing light and shadows influences her ceramic work. Nigel Foster took the crowd on a vicarious year of traveling in the life of a kayak personality and designer, journeying from Seattle to Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Italy, China and more. A special guest was Jake Stachovak who took a break from his Portage to Portage Paddling Project to entertain the crowd with his trip progress. His quest is a 5000 mile solo kayak journey around the Eastern United States; linking the Mississippi River to the Great Lakes via the Gulf Coast, Atlantic seaboard, and New York Canal Systems, ending where he began in the small town of Portage Wisconsin. Jake described a number of interesting adventures (and misadventures), including being “pepper-sprayed” in the dark streets of a river town. Jake is planning to write a book about his experiences and you can follow his progress on his blog.
Special thanks to Russell Farrow of Sweetwater Kayaks, for allowing me to be a part of the event and to Jeff Fabiszewski and Ken Knapton, both excellent instructors, for their help with the Greenland classes.
Jake Stachovak (taking a break from his expedition) and Kristin Nelson
Winter weather finally broke and was replaced by Florida sunshine (photo courtesy of Gil)
Russell (right on guitar) playing with his band Sisemore, Saturday night at the Aqualounge
Presentations featured Kristen Nelson, Nigel Foster and Jake Stachovak (photo courtesy of Gil)
Demonstrating Greenland strokes on the move (photo courtesy of Gil)
Sweden is a beautiful place to paddle. The archipelago delivers a fantastic assortment of islands to camp on, and explore. Being accustomed to the heat of Florida, and recently Israel, I got my first taste of “Winter” for the year. We were greeted with light snow flurries, wind and cold temperatures as I helped Johan and Peter of Escape Outdoors prepare for the weekend classes (wing and Greenland instruction). This is perfect drysuit weather. Our first task was to collect supplies and erect a tipi on a nearby island. Complete with a woodstove and furs on the floor, this is a an ideal warming shelter and provides room for eight or more. The tipi will be used for lunch and dinner. With the woodstove burning it is toasty warm inside. Luxury!
In the evening Johan and I donned protective suits, climbing helmets and headlamps to explore a local cave. From the opening chamber the cave transformed into a serpentine maze of very tight tunnels. Some of the constrictions looked much too small for an adult to get through. “Are you sure we can fit through there”?
If you are in the Gothenburg area, please drop by. I look forward to meeting you!
Greg surfing John Petersen’s Baidarka in San Simeon California during the TAKS symosium. Photo by John Petersen. Click on image to view full-size.
I’m not sure if I love kayaking because it is a form of travel or that I love traveling because I always mix it with kayaking. Both kayaking and traveling are a form of freedom. But (Mae West’s views notwithstanding), you CAN have too much of a good thing. To me travel is best when complemented by adequate time to enjoy home, friends and family.
I’m off today for Israel (Optimist Sea Kayaking Symposium), my gear barely dry after rinsing off the Pacific salt from California. And California was on the heels of adventures in Japan, Delaware, Michigan and Newfoundland. After Israel I will visit Sweden and then will finally have time to work off the jetlag, relax and relfect.
I’m certainly not complaining. I love virtually everything about travel. My worn, dog-eared passport is down to the last two pages for stamps. I inherited my Grandfather’s wanderlust. My Grandfather was born in Hamburg, Germany and found his calling as a missionary who traveled the world. As a boy I sat on his lap spellbound as we leafed through his meticulous photo albums and he spun tale after tale. My imagination was fired by pictures of him in exotic places, such as on camel back by the Sphinx, with headhunters in the jungles of Borneo, in Europe and more, always with my father and uncle alongside (who were just lads at the time).
In Israel I’m looking forward to visiting the same sites in Jerusalem that my Grandfather and father spoke of, and photographed. Once home I’ll shake off the last bit of jetlag and share some adventures and images with you, of the past two months.
This years’ Michigan Training Camp (Qajaq TC) started off with a bang as storms created wild conditions on Lake Michigan, much to the delight of the participants. Dennis Asmussen, Mike McDonald and myself led a surf session, that provided a great opportunity for participants to play and test their skills and rolls in challenging seas. From the smiles and shouts that ensued, it’s clear that everyone enjoyed themselves. I was impressed that there were very few wet-exits, even though this was the first time that some students rolled in conditions. The short-period waves were great fun and you could occasionally coax them into giving you long rides of 100 yards or more. One breaker hit my foredeck with enough force that it sent my kayak reeling backwards and setup a nice back-surf, anchored by a hanging draw. Of course, the secret to surfing is that whenever something interesting happens (that looks cool), that you just tell people that you meant to do it!
The Qajaq TC is a Greenland-style event held near Traverse City, Michigan and is affiliated with Qajaq USA. It is one of my favorite events. Much of the joy of an event like this is the reunion with “my other family” — a charmingly dysfunctional and eccentric kayak family. Although there are far too many special friends to mention, it was heartwarming for me to cross paths with Dennis Asmussen again, after several years’ hiatus. It was also great to teach with Helen Wilson, once more. Helen was a guest instructor and she shared her rolling grace with students as well as entertained the group with her experience at the Greenland competition.
The venue is cozy and fantastic — a camp situated between a thin strand of dune and forest separating the calm waters of Lower Herring Lake from the often wild waters of Lake Michigan. The dune provides a fantastic location for a bonfire, dramatically overlooking the big lake. The beauty of the location is that it offers participants a choice between mild and wild kayaking.
The camp sports a small number of rustic cabins, a wood-fired hot-tub and more, all linked by a series of paths through the woodlands. The intimate nature of the camp ensures that the event stays small. Organizers Nancy Thornton and Diane Carr run a well-honed operation. They have avoided the “bigger is better” growth and sprawl common with many successful events.
The food, served up by Uncommon Adventures owner, Michael Gray is simply fantastic. This is the only symposium that I frequent that features gourmet-quality cuisine. If you only come for the good you will NOT be disappointed.
And finally there is the instruction. As a Qajaq USA event the focus is on mentoring, where everybody is both a teacher and a student — although there are dedicated coaches, of course. The mentoring is thorough, yet informal. There are always multiple sessions (or pods as they are called) in progress. Although much of the focus is on static braces and rolling, skills taught are very diverse, from forward strokes and bow rudders to harpoon throwing and forward leaning handrolls. The beauty of the system is that students are free to move between groups and can absorb as much (or as little) as they please.
If you are into G-style, love great company and fantastic food, put the Qajaq TC on your “To-Do” list in 2010. But be warned, the event fills early.
Hover your cursor over the images to see a caption.
La Bufadora Blowhole. One of the most spectacular in the world!
Pals Nigel Foster and Russell Farrow
Our “tent village”. Perched on a cliff overlooking the beautiful Pacific.
Many thanks to Jen Kleck and Jake Stachovak of Aqua Adventures for flying me in to coach in San Diego at the Southwest Kayak Symposium . This was my first time teaching in Southern California and it was good to make acquaintance with a number of people that I have corresponded with, including members of the Greenland-style community such as Duane Strosaker and others. I taught a mix of both Greenland-style skills and “Euro” skills using a narrow Greenland paddle. Kudos to Jen for understanding that these skills are not mutually exclusive. I enjoyed the students in all of my classes!
Symposiums, for those on the “circuit”, is akin to being part of a diverse, entertaining and sometimes, …..well…, gloriously dysfunctional family. It is amazing to travel over the world and share the experience with a collection of special friends. The catch, of course, is that you don’t see these friends very often, but that is partially what makes the experience so special. Fellow Floridian and paddling buddy Russell Farrow, of Sweetwater Kayaks (Clearwater, Florida), was there, along with Nigel Foster, Steve Maynard, (born to be wild) Phil Hadley, Tom Bergh, Sean Morely and a number of other colorful characters.
Following the symposium a number of us assembled a rag-tag convoy of kayaks and gear and headed south. We pushed past the noise and chaos of Tijuana on our way to La Bufadora in Baja, Mexico, a small tourist town located about 17 miles south of Ensenada, at the end of the Punta Banda peninsula. We saw no sign of the recent violence, probably due to the fairly heavy military presence. Along the Transpeninsular highway were a number of checkpoints manned by troops in full battle regalia including Hummers outfitted with machine guns.
The roadside taco and tamale stands were fantastic and extremely inexpensive. We stopped in Ensenada for critical supplies (…meaning Negro Modelo cerveza) and soon afterward rolled into La Bufadora. Our camp, on a high bluff, overlooked a fabulous rock garden close to “the Blowhole”, one of the largest in the world and capable of spewing water 80 ft above sea level. A blowhole, or “marine geyser” is produced when the ocean swell pushes water into a sea cave and is compressed with air drawn down a natural “pipe” from the surface, the result of a pumping action caused by the receding water of the previous swell. The air/water mix has nowhere to go, is compressed and explodes, accompanied by a tremendous roar, “BUUUUUUUUUUUUUSH”, sounding ominously like coming from a gigantic beast trapped inside the cave.
Our time in Baja was spent playing in rock gardens, sea caves and pour-overs during the day, relaxing in the sun, and sampling the local spiced tequila at night. One “interesting” incident for me was a result of mistiming the swell. I was in my kayak behind a saddle-shaped rock encrusted with razor-sharp mussel shells, waiting for a suitable surge to carry me over. Finally I felt the bottom drop beneath me and I sprinted forward, expecting the following surge to carry me clear. The expected surge didn’t materialize and my bow grated against hard rock and shell. I came to rest with my bow hanging well over the rock and perched at a precipitously steep angle. The water receded and with nothing to brace against, I capsized. I was high and dry and fully tucked forward. I again waited for a suitable surge in this very awkward position, my body only inches away from the mussels. Very soon a large swell lifted the kayak, I rolled up, and was carried clear — fortunately without my body touching either rock or shells!
One hilarious highlight one evening was Phil Hadley taking over the microphone at the local bar (Phil was once the lead singer for a rock band), and Russell Farrow, on lead guitar, jamming with the house band to a very energetic (not to mention profane) version of “Born to be Wild”. Words just can’t describe it…. 🙂
If you get the chance to go to Baja, go! The desert climate is fantastic, the paddling is superb and the tequila — well, I’ll leave that one for you to decide…
I am currently teaching Greenland kayaking skills in Gothenburg, Sweden, care of Johan and Sara Wagner of Escape Kajakcenter. Classes will run until November 2 — if you are in the area, please stop by to say hello!
To date I have given lectures of my Newfoundland and Iceland circumnavigations and have been working with students to help perfect their forward stroke, bracing, directional strokes and other skills with a Greenland paddle. The weather has been cool and breezy. Today Johan and I crossed to Nidingen Island (a bird sanctuary off the coast with Denmark barely visible in the distance). During the 25K paddle we experienced F5-6 headwinds, sun, rain, hail and our own private lunch table high atop the lighthouse. The return trip was fast and fun with strong following seas.
In addition to kayaking I will be visiting some of the local museums and look forward to viewing both historical kayaks as well as old Norse and Viking boats. Tackar så mycket Sara and Johan for your fine hospitality!
I nudged the right rudder pedal and reminiscent of a vintage fighter plane peeling off to dive, my kayak heeled over as the bow dropped sharply into the wave trough just ahead of me. The acceleration was instantaneous. I had to stand on my foot-pegs and lean back to keep the bow from pearling. Soon I was surfing faster than my arms could spin; I even stopped paddling completely — holding the paddle blade skimming just above the water ready for a low brace. The GPS recorded 11 mph as my exuberant shouts of “Woo Hoo!!!” were drowned-out by the wind!
