KayakVagabond

the website of Greg Stamer

Archive for the ‘Expeditions’ Category

Crossed Placentia Bay

Posted by derrick on June 21, 2008

placentiabay.jpg

Placentia Bay is about 50 miles wide stretches inland about 80 miles. We had wondered how Greg would approach it.  Now we know.  We received a late message; “N47 05.5 W055 06.3 Crossed Placentia Bay 18 hours in kayak. Will take a rest day.”  A rest day?  I’m not surprised! 18 hours across open water is an incredible achievement for any paddler. We’re all pretty impressed around here, and of course happy Greg made it across without incedent.  Neil Burgess shares this; “No one has ever crossed Placentia Bay from Cape St. Mary’s to the Burin Peninsula before in a kayak!”

Crossed St. Mary’s Bay

Posted by derrick on June 20, 2008

pointlance525
(Point Lance)

Yesterday Greg Crossed St. Mary’s Bay coping with strong currents and quarting winds the whole way.  He is now staying in Point Lance (population 119), under the care of Orinda & Jerry.   N46 48.7 W54 05.1 –  53K day.

map 4

St. Mary’s Bay is about 25 miles wide and 36 miles deep and lined with many small communities. For a bit of history about life on the bay read:

Branch, St. Mary’s Bay in pre-confederation Newfoundland

History of St. Mary’s

Message from Greg:  I was greeted by Benedictine on an ATV as I sorted my gear. The residents remember Freya and I landing in the town last year to use the phone at “Bennie’s” house. Many thanks to Jerry and Orinda for their hospitality!  Not only did they give me a fine dinner, a warm bed,  and breakfast but Jerry drove into town to purchase some marine caulk to use for kayak repairs. Jerry refused any payment and I will never forget their kindness.

Westward ho!

Posted by derrick on June 19, 2008

 Covered Wagon

From Greg: N46 37.2 W53 32.7 Westward ho! Rounded Cape Race and crossed Trepassey Bay. 70km. Many seals. Beautiful moonrise over sea.

Map 3

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Each day I as soon as I open my email I see our new map and update from Greg waiting. . thanks Karel!  It’s amazing what you can do when you have people working on the same projects from a variety of time zones!

* top image: Library of Congress

Cappahayden

Posted by derrick on June 18, 2008

map 2

From Greg Today:

N 46 52.7 W52 56.1 Cappahayden. Early fog turned to sun. Seas much calmer. Huge iceberg in Renews Hbr. Enjoyed some “fizzing” 3,000 year old ice, originated as snow in Greenland, plucked from the water as I paddled. Camp on ridge overlooking sea.

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56.1 Kilometers comes out to about 35 miles. So. . Here’s today’s trivia: Cappahayden is actually half of an amalgamated fishing village now called Renews-Cappahayden with a population of about 400 or so. If you Google “Cappahayden” you’ll find that Cappahayden dating websites come in at #5 & #10 in the search. And wouldn’t you know, Greg spent the night up on the ridge. . .

Witless. . .

Posted by derrick on June 17, 2008
map 1 to witless bay
Greg checks in. . .
N 47 17 W 52 48. 40KM. Quidi Vidi to Witless Bay. Lumpy, confused seas. Challenging along Cape Spear & cliffs to south. Rain and light fog. 3 icebergs in view thru tent door.
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Greg is using a SAT Phone along the way to keep us up to date. Designed a bit like a 1980’s cellphone it takes forever to just key out short messages. By the way, in case you were curious Witless Bay is not a commentary on the residents. The story goes that Captain Whittle and his family from Dorsetshire, England founded the community. Then on his passing his family returned to England. Hence, the remaining settlers referred to Whittle’s Bay as Whittle less Bay and eventually, Witless Bay. Well, maybe that’s a bit of reach but that’s what the guidebook says!

greg’s going south. . .

Posted by derrick on June 16, 2008
greg-iceberg1-nb.jpg

Hi All! Greg is on his way. Here’s this from Neil Burgess. . . .

Greg started his trip at 10:00 this morning and headed south from St. John’s around Cape Spear (the most easterly point in North America). Light NE winds, light rain, 8 degrees C, 1-metre seas.

The photo above is of Greg out paddling with Kayak Newfoundland & Labrador club yesterday at Cape Broyle (which he will probably pass by again later today).

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Cape Spear as Neil said is the most easterly point in North America and is a national historic site in Canada. The Cape Spear Lighthouse is oldest remaining light in Newfoundland and has been restored to it’s mid-19th century glory. You can read more here.

Good luck Greg, stay warm, stay safe and always stay a sociably acceptable distance from icebergs. . . .

Underway…

Posted by Greg on June 16, 2008

Yesterday I paddled with KNL (kayak Newfoundland Labrador) on a daytrip to Cape Broyle harbour. It was good to get out, test my kayak, see some old friends and make some new. Cold, foggy and wet, but we were greeted by two Icebergs off the coast. The “Pro” felt great — surfs like a demon with a following sea, and a good fit (although I was squirming my toes a bit).

Fortunately my third gear bag arrived from Newark, and I was up past midnight outfitting the kayak (installing North Water cockpit bags and under the deck bag), etc.  Thanks to Neil and Isabelle for treating me to a feast of traditional seal flipper pie!

It’s raining now at 9:00am, and is forecast to rain for the next two days. I am expecting to get a late start on the water and make this an easy “shakedown” day, prior to “finding my groove” and getting up to full speed.

It seems that my cell phone — using the Roger’s network, won’t do me much good outside of a few major towns, but I am traveling with a satellite phone and will be sending daily updates. It’s fantastic to finally be setting off!

Luggage Blues…

Posted by Greg on June 14, 2008

Tom Petty summed it up best in his song, “…the waiting is the hardest part…”.   Continental airlines “misplaced” one of my three gear bags. Since I need the contents to outfit my kayak, each day the bag hasn’t arrived will result in a day’s delay. There is only one flight by that airline into St. John’s nightly.  The flight last night was cancelled.  I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the bag has been found and will be delivered tonight. That said, this is just a part of traveling that you have to take in stride…

Immigration interviewed me for quite some time when I landed Thursday night. Apparently the combination of a one-way ticket and staying 60+ days, spelled “trouble”. I was asked a number of interesting questions such as “what kind of work do you do that allows you to take 2 month vacations?  Where will you sleep and stay along the way?  Why are you travelling around the island?”  My unspecific answers, “I will paddle until I find a beautiful spot and then camp”, didn’t fit nicely into the safe, strict ininerary that the officer wanted to hear. Eventually, though the officer smiled and said “have a nice trip”.

Rain is pattering on the roof. Weather is foggy, wet and cool — but a welcome break from the heat of Florida.

Neil Burgess was gracious enough to drive me around town to obtain groceries, white gas, and other supplies.  We picked up the kayak that I will be using for the trip. The kayak has been modified by changing the rope-skeg mechanism to a wire-skeg, but the design looks bomproof and works smoothly. Malcolm Rowe had a lovely dinner for me and a few close friends last night. Many thanks for the warm welcome and hospitality! Also many thanks to Neil and Isabelle for hosting me in their home.

Airborne…

Posted by Greg on June 12, 2008

Bags are packed, I fly out of Orlando this morning, and will arrive in St. John’s Newfoundland just before midnight. Many thanks to Neil Burgess and Isabelle for hosting me in St. John’s! The new luggage fees are making these trips more expensive. One bag is free, the second is $25.00 and the third is $100.00. Ouch! I didn’t want to risk shipping items by ground and having duty charged, or worse, the items held in customs.

It will take two days to outfit my kayak and purchase some food and other items that was not practical to carry on the plane. If preparations and weather cooperates, I will be on the water next Sunday! The waiting is difficult — I want to be out there!

Preparations and countdown…

Posted by Greg on May 30, 2008


A dry run at packing is always wise when you have a new kayak and new gear. Good old elbow grease and idle threats always seem to help… Many thanks to my good friend Russell Farrow at Sweetwater kayaks for providing a “test” Greenlander Pro.

Early this morning I donned my wool socks, pulled on my jet-black Kokatat drysuit, and wriggled into my size 11 Chotas. I slid into the Greenlander Pro with my boots squealing in protest against the hull until they found the footpegs. A snug fit for my feet, but it will work. All dressed up and nowhere to go! Unfortunately, I wasn’t about to glide among icebergs or sea stacks, rather I was merely testing the fit of my new boots and was racing against time before I began roasting in the sweltering Florida heat. I jumped out just as I started to feel the first trickle of sweat running down the suit. The neighbors glanced over but didn’t even say a word. From rope gymnastics to strange rolls to wearing a black drysuit in “summer”, they stopped asking questions long ago …

Snow fell recently in Newfoundland and icebergs continue to spill down “iceberg alley”. That can be difficult to fully grasp when living in the land of palm trees, humidity and alligators with the mercury rising over 90 degrees. One of the delights of kayak expeditions is that you can jump aboard a jet and suddenly be exploring an alien landscape — literally a different world in a matter of days or even hours. At this time last year, I distinctly remember the excitement of seeing a moonscape of black volcanic rock appear beneath me, as my plane descended in Iceland, one day prior to beginning a kayak circumnavigation.

Preparations for my Newfoundland circumnavigation are proceeding smoothly, and I expect to be getting underway the second week of June. My life is currently a flurry of excitement and activity: buying months worth of dog food for “Bear”, my Chow/Golden Retriever mix (he’s in the photo, but you’ll need “finding Waldo” skills to see him); ensuring that all the bills will be paid; learning to become proficient with new gear (even practicing putting up and taking down my new Hilleberg tent) working out an efficient packing scheme, and hundreds of other details both big and small.

An “expedition” just wouldn’t be an expedition without some stress, worry and concern. But everything always manages to come together in time. The inevitable challenges have to be taken in stride. A roof leak, an expensive car repair and an elbow/bicep injury caused some anxiety. Just a week ago I was researching all options to discover a way to get a kayak shipped from Maine to Newfoundland. I asked for help on the forums and spent hours on the phone with shipping companies. That’s when I received an email from Malcolm Rowe, a kayaker/judge who I met last year, offering to let me use his kayak on the trip. At first I refused — as a kayak takes rough treatment on a solo trip where it is dragged more than it is carried. However Nigel Dennis offered to replace Malcolm’s kayak after the trip, which made this option reasonable. Many thanks to Malcolm and Nigel and everyone else who has provided assistance.

Once the trip is underway, I will be posting daily updates to this blog with the help of Karel Vissel, who will provide Google maps and weather, and Derrick Mayoleth, who will create the blog entires. Between internet stops, I will post short status messages sent from my Blackberry or a satellite phone. I’ll capture plenty of images and post them as possible. I hope that you will follow my progress on the trip, and add your comments!