Spillars Cove

N48 39.6 W53 04.02 Spillars Cove. 85K. 14 hour crossing of Bonavista Bay. Calm & sunny. Surrounded by whales & dolphins for most of day.

fireworks

N49 16.5 W53 32.2 Brandy Cove near Cape Freels. So many whales leaping & crashing down in distance near Muddy Cove that it sounded like fireworks. Drysuit neck gasket gave up the ghost & split, good thing trip almost done. 62K today. Camped on a soft, thick bed of crowberry.

movin’ on

N49 33.55 W54 14.95 Western Indian Island (near Fogo). 50K. Beautiful warm sunny day (very hot in drysuit). Change Islands & Fogo area is a beautiful archipelago. Curious marine patrol boat intercepted me and came alongside. They said that they simply couldn’t figure out what kind of craft they were viewing from the distance. The officers were polite, we chatted, and they took a pic before they went off.  They were out to monitor the recreational cod fishery that opened today. It seems that everyone who owned a boat was out today for their hand at jigging cod.

I thought that I was about to strike a pink-colored shoal when I discovered that I had entered a cloud of jellyfish. Literally millions of them! Dipped the camera underwater for some images and hope that they turned out.

crossings

Greg – N49 41.04 W54 48.36 Sleepy Cove, Batrix Island. 77K open water crossing in 12hrs. Scores of whales, some leaping out of water. Saw at least 100 blow spouts. Picture perfect camp on ridge overlooking natural harbor.

Finally! Internet Access

I’m in a public library in La Scie, a small fishing village at the tip of the Baie Verte Peninsula. It’s good to finally be off the long Northern Peninsula and moving East! Yesterday I crossed from the Southern tip of Bell Island, to Bai Verte, 90K of open water. The forecast was not great, calm seas until the afternoon and then headwinds. I got up at 4:30am and was on the water at 6:40. The sea was completely glass and I sprinted at 4.5 knots trying to get as many miles behind me while I could. Once the headwinds come up and your speed drops to 2.5 knots or less it takes forever to cover ground and it really wears you down. I was hoping that the forecast would be wrong but the headwinds started around 2:00pm and were howling by 5:00pm, with steep, choppy waves. After 16 hours I reached the tip of the peninsula just as the sun was setting. Unfortunately the two coves that looked so nice on my topo maps and GPS were completely unsuitable for landing – – steep rocky cliffs. It’s hard to describe the emotions you feel at this point. You are completely spent from a long crossing, it is getting dark and cold, you just want to get out of your kayak and stretch your legs, and now you have no idea how long it will take to find a landing. I took the safe route and backtracked a few miles to La Scie, since as a harbour I knew that I would at least find a place to haul out, and aids to navigation to guide me in.

As I paddled into the harbour, surrounded by steep, jagged cliffs, the moon was rising, the stars and the milky way were shining, and every paddle stroke was glowing from bioluminescence. It was one of the most fantastically beautiful moments that I have ever experienced (but at that moment I just wanted to get OUT of the kayak and PEE!).

I appreciate the comments and all of you who have followed my daily progress. This trip has been an amazing experience. The hospitality of the Newfoundlanders has really restored my faith in people. The fishermen, in particular have been very helpful. The sea can be harsh and all sailors are at the mercy of the wind and sea. There seems to be a kinship among people who take to the sea in small boats, and a culture of reaching out a helping hand.

Most nights I have been camping in the wilds, but I have been hosted four times. Usually I have tented, but on occasion when in a town the local fishermen have directed me to the harbor authority building — usually with running water and toilets and hot coffee on the stove. Several times now I have slept in fishing shacks (gear huts), rather than putting up the tent. One of these was huge and empty — big enough to work on several fishing boats. One was tiny and was cramped full of crab and lobster traps — making for a most unusual aroma…

Looking at the map, the trip could be done in as little as seven days if I push hard — and that’s the irony of it. I enjoy pushing hard but by doing so the trip is shortened. At the same time, I don’t enjoy going slow. From past trips I know that I will feel a little lost when I finish. The amazing daily routine of being a part of the sea will be shattered, and it will take some time to get used to “normal life” again. At the same time, I’m very much looking forward to seeing friends and family again. Trips like this are fleeting — and perhaps that’s the beauty of them.

90K

N49 57.8 W55 36.17 La Scie Harbour. 90K. Open water crossing from Bell island to Baie Verte Peninsula. Crossing took 15 hours plus an extra hour to find a place to land. Glassy sea until afternoon then slugged it out with strong headwind.

movin’ on

N50 57.53 W55 50.93 Pilier Bay at Cape Rouge. 45K. Interviewed by local newspaper prior to launching. Crossed Hare Bay. Persistent headwinds reduced forward speed to 2.5knots or less. Camped close to sea caves & arches. Will explore them tomorrow.

Goose Cove

N51 18.3 W55 38.18 Goose Cove. 58K. Early fog burned off leaving blue skies but moderate headwinds. Many whales, also saw my first sunfish its tall fin flopping lazily from side to side. Aborted plans to cross Hare Bay due to strong headwinds & confused seas. Got off water just ahead of rain and thunderstorms. I knocked on a door asking permission to put up my tent on a grassy spot and ended up being hosted by Ed who treated me to a Cod dinner and Capt’n Morgans rum!

tourist

Enjoyed my day as a tourist. I recall the L’Anse aux Meadows site as being described as “desolate” but I found it strikingly beautiful. It reminds me a bit like Greenland, a green grassy plain surrounded by hills & the sea. Invited to a party with plenty of country music, beer,singing, dancing & laughter. These people certainly know how to enjoy life! Already looking forward to being on the water & pushing hard tomorrow.

Vikings

N51 36.07 W55 32.24 L’Anse aux Meadows. 85K & poised to round the Northern peninsula. 13hrs on water. Dim fog until crossed Pistolet Bay then turned sunny. Windy with a lumpy sea. Beautiful crossing of Sacred Bay with setting sun painting the world crimson. Will relax as tourist tomorrow & explore Viking site. I have wanted to visit here since grade school.